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ARTICLES

Petrol to Oil Ratio

Heat Protection

Minimoto Gearing Ratios

Remove a Minimoto engine

How do I keep my bike running smooth?

More performance


"The Complete Guide To Buying, Maintaining, Tuning and Modifying Pocket Bikes!" Amazing new book reveals everything there is to know about Pocket Bikes...

How do I get more performance?

Carb - The bigger the carb (meaning bore and jets sizes) the more fuel you can introduce to the cylinder.

Reeds - Stiffer reeds close tighter and faster sealing your precious air/fuel mixture into your case. This aids in the pre compression stage of your mixture. Stiffer reeds also don't flutter at higher rpm, which creates turbulence before the charge reaches the combustion chamber.

Ported head - (this also includes the porting of the case at the transfer port bottom) this allows more fuel/air to enter the combustion chamber via lesser resistance and larger cross sectional area. (Up to a limit, this gets WAY more complicated) This includes matching the ports between the case and the head and smoothing any obstacles to the mixtures flow.

Indexed/matched piston - Indexing the piston (the way I do it) effectively increases the transfer port size at the top. It also advances the intake timing, allowing more fresh charge into the combustion chamber. An angled "index" will guide the charge up and to the rear of the chamber which will swirl and create a vacuum at the front of the chamber; this helps scavenging and creates more space for the return pulse charge. This makes your power band peak stronger and allows your expansion chamber to be more effective.
Matching the piston is cleaning up the underside to maximize flow and to enlarge the transfer port at the bottom, this is mostly effective on the cag piston port style motors.

Tuned pipe - A properly tuned pipe will create a return pulse at precisely the right time to pack the left over fresh charge back into the combustion chamber. At your power band peak this essentially acts like a turbo.

Performance clutch - I'm mainly talking about the clutch engagement time here. If a clutch is set to engage at later rpm, you can build more horsepower before it engages. This will give you substantially more acceleration. The motor will also rev faster at the lower rpm due to the lack of a load on the motor. This also acts as if you have a lighter piston/crank, until engagement that is.

Sprockets - Bigger rear sprocket or smaller front pinion = more acceleration, Smaller rear sprocket or bigger front pinion = less acceleration, more top-end
Pinion to Sprocket ration ~= 1:10, that means 1 pinion tooth ~= to 10 Sprocket teeth. If you're looking for a good all around gear ratio to ride with everyday, and you want some good clutch pad life, stick with your first thought...7/72 or even 7/74. You'll have much better acceleration, but not quite the top speed as a 7/66 or a 7/68 would have. Also, try a 6-tooth pinion. It’s easier for your engine/clutch (as far as these centrifugal clutches go) to push a 6t pinion than a 7. Try a 6/68 if you want.

Article source www.pocket-bike-racing.com.au


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Extra heat protection:


To protect the bike put some aluminum tape on the inside of the fairing at the closest point to the exhaust and on the underside of the fuel tank. Because the engine gets so hot I you can protect the fairing from melting, and it doesn't hurt to protect the fuel tank for the same reasons!

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Minimoto Gearing Ratios
Below you'll find the listing of gear ratios for your minimoto.

The lower the ratio, the faster you'll accelerate - but don't forget - the top end won't be there. Small ratios are great for tight, twisty indoor tracks.

The higher the ratio, the greater your theoretical top speed will be - conversely your acceleration will be much less. These larger ratios are used on long, sweeping outdoor tracks.

10>1 is the middle of the road, nice balance between acceleration and speed. Start here and build up your own idea of what track requires what gearing.
8/54 6.75>1
8/56 7>1
8/58 7.25>1
8/60 7.5>1
7/54 7.714285714>1
8/62 7.75>1
7/56 8>1
8/64 8>1
7/56 8>1
8/66 8.25>1
7/58 8.285714286>1
8/68 8.5>1
7/60 8.571428571>1
8/70 8.75>1
7/62 8.857142857>1
8/72 9>1
6/54 9>1
7/64 9.142857143>1
8/74 9.25>1
6/56 9.333333333>1
7/66 9.428571429>1
8/76 9.5>1
6/58 9.666666667>1
7/68 9.714285714>1
8/78 9.75>1
6/60 10>1
7/70 10>1
7/72 10.28571429>1
6/62 10.33333333>1
7/74 10.57142857>1
6/64 10.66666667>1
7/76 10.85714286>1
6/66 11>1
7/78 11.14385714>1
6/68 11.33333333>1
6/70 11.66666667>1
6/72 12>1
6/74 12.33333333>1
6/76 12.66666667>1
6/78 13>1 Article source: Minimoto club

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Petrol:Oil Ratio - What mix gives the best performance?
How much oil should be used in my petrol to give the best performance?

Simple answer :

Running In - 40:1
Normal Use - 50:1

That's 50 parts petrol to 1 part oil.

Not sure how to work out exactly how much you need...

THEN CLICK HERE TO USE THE MINIMOTOCLUB CALCULATOR!

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How do I keep my bike running smooth?

Always make sure that the spark plug is clean, and is a light brown/goldish color. This can tell you a lot about how your motor is running. Replace this when signs of wear show.

The air filter is used to clean the air going into the gas motor. Periodic cleaning of this filter is recommended to protect your motor against the damaging effects of dirt and abrasive particulates. Your air filter can be located on the back and it has 2 screws. If you have an aftermarket air cleaner you should oil the sponge on a regular basis.

The chain on your pocket bike should be lubricated before every ride. The chain should also be checked for tightness on a regular basis. If the chain is too loose a popping sound can be heard and the bike will jerk under acceleration, or the chain will just jump off altogether. If the chain is too tight it will be noisy and bind, this can be felt by pushing the bike with the motor off.

The carburetor has many adjustments on it and it is recommended that experienced persons make these adjustments only. The carburetor is responsible for pumping the fuel and mixing it with the air at a precise measurement. The carburetor does this with very small diaphragms, orifices and ports, which are easily clogged by contaminants. This is why is extremely important that you use only clean new fuel mixed with 2-cycle oil. Keep the carburetor free of debris. If you don’t then it will cause major problems that we will answer later.


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Removing a Mini Moto Engine

Many mini moto modifications will require you to remove the engine from the mini moto. This is why I have produced the following guide.

Firstly you will need to remove the mini moto’s fairing.

Start with the seat fairing, unscrew the four seat screws and remove the seat. Unscrew the screw at the front end of the seat fairing and remove the petrol cap. The fairing can now be lifted from the mini moto. Replace the fuel tank petrol cap and remove the fuel tank by pulling the rubber tube of the nipple on the top of the carburetor. You may want to double the rubber fuel tube over and secure it in this position with a clothes peg. This is to stop fuel leaking out.

Remove the bottom fairing by unscrewing the holding bolts (two on each side), this frees the bottom fairing from the top. Unscrew the two bolts on the underside of the bottom fairing. The bottom fairing is now free. The top fairing is only now held on by one last bolt located in between the handle bars at the front of the mini moto.

Once you have removed the fairing, you will need to take the chain off the front sprocket. To do this loosen the back wheel nuts and the tensioning bolts. The back wheel can now be manoeuvred toward the front sprocket loosing the chain. When the chain is loose enough you can remove it from the front sprocket.

Remove the pull start from the engine by unscrewing the three holding screws. Once the pull start has been removed you will see the wire that comes from the stop switch. Unplug this.

The throttle cable can be removed from its fitting on the top of the carburetor. Pull the rubber seal up so that the locking nut can be unscrewed, the throttle can now be pulled from the carburetor along with the needle valve and spring.

The next step is to Remove the Exhaust. The exhaust is fixed to the mini motos frame by a bolt located just under the seat fairing toward the back of your mini moto. Undo this bolt with a spanner and an alan key. The exhaust is fixed to the underside of the engine by two bolts via a gasket. Remove the two bolts with an alan key making sure that you do not lose the gasket washer. The exhaust can now be slid out past the engine and removed form the mini moto.

The engine is free from its mechanical fittings, the engine then needs to be removed from the mini motos frame. The bolt at the top of the engine must be undone first using the alan key. The three screws located on the underside of the engine are the last fixings to be undone. The engine can now be completely removed from the mini moto.

Matt Tong has been importing and riding Mini Motos for two years. For expert advice and Mini Moto information please visit http://www.minimotosandmore.com http://www.germany-2006-worldcup.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matt_Tong
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